Overall, I'm really pleased with the paint job, although it did consume about 2 rolls of wide and one roll of thin Tamiya making tape and a lot of brain fade at times, checking and double-checking that I was masking the right areas and leaving the right ones exposed!   A couple of the yellow areas on the bodyshell needed to be re-painted as the paint coverage on them got too thin, too quickly, when polishing them - aaaagggghhhh - cellulose-based paint comes off quicker than acrylic when polishing.   However, I did manage to think of an easy solution (once I had finished swearing at my ineptitude in polishing through the finish) to save masking off the entire model again.  As on 1:1 car painting, the area to be repainted was masked off using tape, delineated to the nearest colour change edge or a panel line.   The bodyshell was then placed in a polythene food bag, big enough to take the piece and then to be sealed with tape (having checked first that the paint didn't melt the bag!).   A few snips with nail scissors then made a hole in the bag of the right size/shape, slightly larger than the area to be repainted.   The edges of the hole in the bag were then taped to the masking on the bodyshell - bingo - a completely masked model except for the small area to be resprayed.   Worked a treat and saved a lot of time, swearing and masking tape.   All of the spraying was done with ready-mixed paint, direct from the aerosol cans.   In retrospect, I think if doing a similar job again I would decant the paint and spray through an airbrush, to retain more control and get into areas, such as the air intake ramps, that the aerosol did not cover evenly first time.   In addition, I wanted to get an accurate colour match, but could only get the correct colour mixed up as a cellulose-based paint.   Modern plastic primers provide the necessary barrier to prevent the plastic of the kit melting and the paint is softer, moulds itself to the surface better and is easier to blend/repair than the modern acrylics.   That said, for simple single or two-colour finishes, I think a colour chip to find the closest match to an off-the-shelf acrylic paint will be the answer.
With the exterior done, the insides of the bodyshell and rear deck were brush-painted satin black.   The headlights were made using the Tamiya 962 kit housings, with BareMetal foil for the reflectors and the 956 kit headlight lenses cut down to form individual lenses, with a small rectangle of plasticard, painted orange, for the indicators.   The completed housings were fitted to the bodyshell, which was then mated up to the chassis and glued in place with spots of CA glue. A little minor filing down of the plasticard extension on the underside of the rear deck was needed to get it to sit accurately on the rear mounts, but aside from that everything fitted and looked good for final detailing and decaling.

Final Detailing
The final engine detailing consisted of making up the exhausts from thin metal tubing bent to shape, fitting the fuel fillers and the coolant header tank, and finally finishing the engine wiring and plumbing.   The only problem here was with the fuel fillers, which use the curved pipe from the 956 kit, with the flat filler plate cut off and replaced with
the better detailed part from the Hasegawa 962 kit.   The extra bulkhead to suspension support struts fitted for the 962 compared to the single one on the 956 were in the way.    A millimetre or two difference in positioning the support struts in the first place would have made the difference, but some judicious filing of the curved pipe overcame the problem.   Mounting lugs for the rear deck were made from plasticard and added to the rear edge of the bodyshell.